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The abandoned, historic centre of Belmonte Calabro has been converted into a magical place to stay, creating a model of sustainable tourism in the process https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2018/apr/28/hilltop-village-holiday-homes-belmonte-calabro-calabria-italy It was August and the view from our car window of smoke rising from forest fires was as dramatic as the road taking us south.